313 Now Magazine      Summer 2004

 

You’d be hard pressed to find a more extensive menu than the one featured at Mezzaluna Ristorante Italiano, located in Sterling Heights With over 70 entrees, 16 appetizers and a long list of daily specials, a diner could pour over this extensive catalogue for hours A recent trip to Mezzaluna’s left my co-diners and I doing just that, before we fell into the leisurely rhythm of a hearty European meal

Owned and operated by husband and wife Zarko and Dena Palushaj, along with Dena’s father, Nick Gojcaj, Mezzaluna retains the warmth of a family-run business without foregoing the sophistication required for fine dining. The sumptuous entryway sets the mood for elegance. Muted tones and plush chairs are punctuated by a large reception desk posed in front of a hand-painted mural. The carpeted floor and textured walls extend into the main dining area The main bar is settled in its own room complete with large leather chairs and a wide selection of cigars. Live music is presented five nights a week by one of their acclaimed performers. Shuttered windows, soft candlelight and crisp white tablecloths allow romance to prevail. In addition to the main dining area and bar, Mezzaluna houses a banquet room that serves up to 60 people. The restaurant also hosts a wine party every few months, which features a fixed-priced, five-course meal and the traditional crushing of the grapes, “Just like old times,” said Zarko.

Upon being seated, an assistant whisked our napkins onto our laps and bread and oil were placed before us. Our server arrived to deliver a friendly greeting, explained the ingredients of the olive oil dipping sauce and pointed out that our basket of breads were all house made. He was also helpful in steering us through the menu. Although I was wary when he told us, “There’s really nothing bad,” the food lived up to his claim.

After each of us ordered a glass of wine (an extensive wine list offered bottles priced from $19-$200), house recommended of course, we perused the antipasti (appetizer) list, from which our server recommended the gamberi alla cremosi. The dish was comprised of breaded jumbo shrimp sauteed in a lemon cream sauce with garlic, but we decide on the antipasto italiano instead because it featured a little bit of everything. The large platter arrived looking splendid; fresh mozzarella, layered with slices of tomato and fresh basil, house-roasted red peppers settled atop a mound of olives, rolls of ham, rounds of salami, and thinly sliced prosciutto draped over wedges of cantaloupe. The bold, fresh flavors mixed and matched with zest The other antipasti dishes ran the gamut from breaded mozzarella sticks to freshly sauteed little-neck clams, all with a heavy emphasis on seafood Prices for the antipasti dishes ranged from $7.95-$12.95.

Next we ordered soup or salad which came include« with every entree. I ordered the minestrone; a steamy tomato broth thickened with beans, vegetable chunks, and beads of pasta. My friends both had garden salads dressed in the house dressing, which was a creamy balsamic. When we finished, our server returned with a table comber to groom our progressively messy spread Then came the hard part: deciding on a main course. A menu so large could not be restricted to just the usual pastas Mezzaluna offers a generous array of chicken, veal, steak, fish and seafood in addition to the traditional Italian recipes. Entrees ranged in price from $12.95, for some of the simpler spaghettis, to $25.95 for a 16-oz cut of  veal. Since I was in the mood for fish our server suggested the salmon del orto which turned out to be an excellent recommendation. Garnished with a lemon wheel, asparagus, capers and artichokes, the salmon was cooked to perfection and was both mouthwatering and moist. A stream of delicately-seasoned lemon butter added zest to the flavorful fish. One of my co-diners ordered the gnocchi with palomino sauce, which she raved about. The bright pink mixture of marinara and alfredo sauces was tasty, but filling after so many courses. My other friend had the filet di manzo, a steak served with a tangy, zip-butter sauce, which he used to spread on his bread as well. The filet came with a side of spinach and a potato croquet; a lightly-breaded, fried roll of mashed potatoes mixed with assagio and Parmesan cheeses, diced salami and prosciutto. A side of pasta also accompanied all meat and seafood entrees.

No meal would be complete without dessert, and although we were taking the rest of our meals home with us, we still found room for a few more bites. The peach sorbet came in a sugar-frosted fruit shell that was delectably sweet. The tartufo, a two-toned gelato (Italian ice cream), tasted like creamy chocolate-dipped hazelnut, but felt light enough to enjoy after such a rich meal. The other desserts included tiramisu, made from scratch, creme brulee, two types of cheesecake, toscanella (layers of puff pastry topped with cream) and various gelati and sorbets.

Mezzaluna has been open for three years, but the food and service is so good, one might expect that it’s been around for ages. Much of the restaurant’s success is due to Zarko’s extensive background in the food industry.  Albanian by birth. Zarko studied hotel and restaurant management in Europe before moving overseas “I came into the country at 18,” said Zarko. “[Working in restaurants] is all I did. They tell me to paint, I can’t. I can only cook chicken“ Zarko worked at several Italian restaurants in New York’s Westchester County before moving to Michigan and opening Mezzaluna.  He chose the name based on its dual meanings; literally, “mezzaluna” translates to “half moon,” in Italian, (a definition reflected in the shadowy lighting) and it is also the name of a curved, double-handled knife once used to chop herbs

When asked about his intent behind the enterprise, Zarko – who had a hand in everything from the menu to the decor – replied, “I’m trying for fine dining, but not too high. I’m trying to give people options ... We have something for everybody.” The other, perhaps more subtle, element at work is having a staff that functions as a team.  “My main thing is working together,” said Zarko “Everybody for one, it doesn’t matter whose table. The customers are everybody’s not just one server’s One day I’m a cook one day a server, one day a bartender, one day a busboy.” Upon hearing this, I realized that Zarko’s passion for variety infuses all aspects of Mezzaluna, so long as his guests are happy. Just taking another look at the mammoth menu confirms it.

 

Mezzaluna is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday.
The restaurant is located at 7750 E. Metro Parkway.
Reservations are accepted by calling (586) 268-7100.
For more information, visit www.mezzalunaristorante.com.